The Science Behind Hyaluronic Acid in Anti-Aging Skincare
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Hyaluronic acid is a well-known superhero of the skincare world. However, if you’re interested in learning more about what exactly this miracle molecule is, and how it works its magic on your skin, keep reading. In this post, we’re going to go into:
So if you’re ready to dive into the fascinating science behind hyaluronic acid and its awesome anti-aging benefits for your skin, let’s get to it 💧
What is Hyaluronic Acid?
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a naturally occurring molecule in your body that plays a crucial role in maintaining skin hydration and elasticity. It's found naturally in various tissues throughout your body, like your skin, eyes, and connective tissues. Interestingly, about 50% of the total HA in your body is present in your skin, distributed between the dermis and epidermis [1]. Its unique chemical structure is what gives HA its remarkable ability to retain water (up to 1,000 times its own weight!), and makes it such a powerhouse in skincare.
Role in skin hydration and overall health
At a high level, HA’s primary function is maintaining optimal skin hydration by attracting and retaining water molecules. However, research has shown that HA is also involved in other key biological processes, including cell signaling, wound repair, and tissue regeneration, making it essential for overall skin health [2]. For additional information on its benefits, jump to Anti-Aging Benefits of Hyaluronic Acid.
Types of hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid comes in different molecular weights (where molecular weight refers to the size of the HA molecule). And when it comes to hyaluronic acid (HA), size really does matter as its molecular weight can significantly impact its effects on your skin. The molecular weight is typically measured in Daltons (Da) or kilodaltons (kDa), and below are some general classifications:
High Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid (HMW-HA) is generally > 1,000 kDa. As the molecules are larger, they tend to stay on the skin’s surface and form a protective film. As such, it’s great for immediate, visible results.
Benefits:
Immediate hydration for dry or dehydrated skin
Reduces transepidermal water loss
Plumps skin and smooths fine lines (creating a smooth base for makeup)
Provides significant moisturization and improves skin elasticity [3]
Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid (LMW-HA) is usually < 500 kDa. Given the smaller molecules, they can penetrate deeper into the skin and are more easily absorbed. As such, LMW-HA is better for deeper hydration and longer-term benefits.
Benefits:
Deep hydration
Improves overall skin health
Addresses signs of aging
Enhances skin repair processes (and potentially has anti-inflammatory properties)
Can penetrate the stratum corneum and induce gene expression related to formation of the skin barrier [4]
Both high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid have their place in skincare. And a study actually found that a multi-weight HA formulation provided both immediate and long-term hydration benefits [5]. Lucky for us, many skincare products now combine different molecular weights of HA, making it easy to take advantage of the beneficial effects of all the different types!
How Hyaluronic Acid Works
Hyaluronic acid has the unparalleled ability to attract and retain water. If you can believe it, a single gram of hyaluronic acid can hold up to 6 liters of water! [6]
Its extraordinary water-binding capacity is due to its chemical structure. As a large, negatively charged molecule, hyaluronic acid acts like a sponge, drawing polar molecules, i.e., water, to itself, creating a gel-like substance that keeps your skin plump and hydrated. This is how it’s able to help maintain a healthy skin barrier, ultimately keeping moisture in and harmful elements out, and leading to smoother, more resilient skin [3]. This mode of action is also what helps with other cellular-level processes, such as stimulating skin cell renewal and enhancing nutrient delivery to skin cells.
Supplementing internal production with topical application
Unfortunately, our bodies’ natural production of hyaluronic acid decreases as we age. Studies have shown that by the time we reach our 40s and 50s, we may have lost up to 50% of the HA we had in our youth [7]. This decline contributes to the formation of wrinkles, loss of skin elasticity, and decreased hydration that are hallmarks of aging skin.
That's where topical HA products come in handy! Supplementing our body’s natural production with topical application can help:
provide immediate hydration to the skin's surface
offer temporary, but significant, improvement in skin hydration and appearance
For example, a study published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology found that 96% of participants using hyaluronic acid-based products reported significant improvements in skin hydration and elasticity after just 8 weeks [8]
provide varied penetration as topical products can be formulated with different molecular weights
In fact, research suggests that a combination of topical application and supporting internal production (with our diet and lifestyle) may offer the best results for skin health [9].
For skincare products that could help with a damaged skincare barrier, check out: 5 Calming Ampoules to Help Soothe Inflamed Skin
Anti-Aging Benefits of Hyaluronic Acid (on top of hydration)
Though hyaluronic acid is mostly known for its hydrating properties, it actually has multiple modes of action to combat the signs of aging. Below are additional ways that hyaluronic acid can help turn back the clock on your skin:
1. Smoothing out fine lines and wrinkles
Hyaluronic acid is a superstar when it comes to smoothing out your skin's surface.
Skin plumping: By drawing water into the skin, HA helps to "fill in" wrinkles and fine lines from the inside out and creates a plumping effect.
A clinical study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that topical application of hyaluronic acid led to a significant reduction in wrinkle depth and an increase in skin firmness after just 60 days of use. [3]
When combined with other anti-aging ingredients, HA can enhance their wrinkle-fighting power.
2. Improvement in skin elasticity and firmness
Moisture retention: By keeping skin well-hydrated, HA helps maintain skin's natural elasticity.
Structural support: HA is a key component of the extracellular matrix, providing support to skin cells.
Stimulation of skin cells: HA can promote the activity of fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin.
A study in the journal Dermatologic Surgery demonstrated that HA fillers not only provided immediate improvement in skin elasticity but also stimulated the body's own production of elastin and collagen, leading to long-term improvements in skin firmness [10]
3. Enhanced skin texture and overall appearance
Hyaluronic acid doesn't just target specific signs of aging…it gives your entire complexion a youthful boost:
Improved skin hydration: Well-hydrated skin appears plumper and more radiant.
Smoother skin surface: HA helps to even out skin texture, reducing the appearance of rough patches.
Enhanced skin barrier function: A stronger skin barrier leads to healthier-looking skin overall.
Research published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology found that a topical serum containing hyaluronic acid significantly improved skin texture, smoothness, and overall appearance in participants after 8 weeks of use [11].
4. Helping with collagen production and skin repair
Hyaluronic acid also supports your skin's long-term health:
Collagen synthesis: HA has been shown to boost the production of collagen, a key protein for skin elasticity and firmness [12]
Wound healing: HA plays a crucial role in skin repair processes, helping to heal damage from UV exposure and other environmental stressors.
Antioxidant properties: Surprisingly, HA also acts as an antioxidant, helping to protect your skin from free radical damage.
One study in the journal Wound Repair and Regeneration demonstrated that hyaluronic acid not only accelerated wound healing but also improved the quality of the skin repair, leading to reduced scarring [13]
So as you can tell, hyaluronic acid is a multi-tasking powerhouse when it comes to anti-aging skincare. From smoothing wrinkles and firming skin to enhancing your overall skin health, it offers a comprehensive approach to combating the signs of aging.
Tips for Incorporating Hyaluronic Acid into Your Skincare Routine
Apply to Damp Skin: Though not a necessity, it could be helpful to apply HA to slightly damp skin. HA works by attracting and sticking to water molecules (like a sponge), so misting your face or applying HA right after cleansing can give the HA more moisture to hold on to.
Less is More: While it can be tempting to apply loads of product to your face, with the thinking that more = better, a pea-sized amount is usually enough for your entire face. Hyaluronic acid is actually quite potent.
Gentle Patting: Instead of rubbing your HA product onto your skin, gently pat the product into your skin. This helps with absorption and ensuring even distribution.
Don't Forget Your Neck: Your neck needs love too! Always extend your HA application down to your neck and décolletage area so that they can reap the benefits as well. (If I still have extra product, I also like to spread it on my hands
Supercharge the Effects: Hyaluronic acid plays well with most skincare ingredients, and can be combined with other anti-aging ingredients for maximum benefit. It pairs particularly well with:
Vitamin C for a brightening and hydrating combo
Niacinamide to support your skin barrier while hydrating
Retinol as HA can help mitigate potential dryness from retinoids
Pro Tip: You can look for products that combine HA with these ingredients to minimize the number of products you need to use.
Be aware of your climate: If you live in a dry climate, be cautious with HA. Without enough moisture in the environment for HA to draw from, it could potentially dehydrate your skin. If you’re in a drier climate, follow HA with a good moisturizer to seal in hydration.
Be consistent: Consistent use is key to maintaining the hydrating benefits of hyaluronic acid. The good news is that hyaluronic acid is gentle enough for daily use, both morning and night.
By following these tips, you'll be on your way to making the most of hyaluronic acid; and your skin will thank you with a plump, dewy glow.
Product Recommendations
Luckily for us, because hyaluronic is such a popular and effective ingredient, there are a TON of excellent products on the market. Below are a few of the best hyaluronic acid products I’ve tried that also work well on sensitive skin. Look at all the pretty blue 💙
This is probably the best hyaluronic acid serum that I’ve tried because its main focus is clearly to provide hydration. It contains 5 types of hyaluronic acid molecules, which allows for deep hydration and moisturization for different layers of your skin. Additional hydrating and soothing ingredients include allantoin and panthenol.
The consistency is a bit thicker than water, but it still absorbs very easily into the skin. It’s good for all skin types, and after use, you can definitely feel a dewy plumpness to your skin.
This is an ultra-hydrating ampoule formulated with a high concentration of hyaluronic acid to protect the skin’s moisture levels and decrease dryness, resulting in skin that is consistently moist and healthy. Aligned with other products from this brand, it also contains Madagascar cica that helps to soothe the skin and calm redness.
Additional natural ingredients further help increase elasticity of the skin and support overall skin health.
This lightweight serum is both beautiful and effective. Along with a 5-layer hyaluronic acid complex, it’s formulated with 63% Iceland Glacier Water, and together, they work to provide intense hydration and balanced moisture levels to your skin.
Additional ingredients include niacinamide, which helps with improving skin texture and brightness, and glycerin, which further helps to draw moisture to the skin.
It’s honestly incredible how such a tiny molecule can pack such a powerful punch in the fight against aging. The science behind how hyaluronic acid works is truly fascinating, and its benefits for your skin are nothing short of remarkable. Hopefully this info drives you to consider starting (or continuing) to use hyaluronic acid because incorporating it into your skincare routine can lead to dramatically more hydrated, plump, and youthful-looking skin. ✨