Choosing The Right Active Ingredients For Your Skin: What You Need to Know
If you’ve heard of skincare actives, I’m sure you know that they are ingredients that target specific skincare concerns. But if you’re curious about understanding skincare actives a bit deeper, this post is for you. In this post, I’ll go into:
How to choose the right active ingredients for your skin type
The pros and cons of DIY vs. store-bought products with actives
So whether you're a skincare beginner or a seasoned skincare enthusiast, this post will give you the knowledge needed to select the appropriate skincare actives for YOU and harness the full potential of your products for glowing, healthy skin.
Introduction to Active Ingredients
What are active ingredients in skincare?
Active ingredients in skincare are specific compounds or substances that have a therapeutic effect on the skin. Unlike inactive ingredients, which may serve as fillers, stabilizers, preservatives, or emulsifiers, active ingredients are responsible for delivering the targeted benefits of a product, such as hydration, exfoliation, anti-aging effects, or acne treatment.
If you’re into metaphors, actives are the architects of your skin's health. Just as architects design and build structures that enhance functionality and beauty, skincare actives work to repair, nourish, and support your skin, creating a strong foundation for a healthy complexion.
Why are actives so important?
Actives play a pivotal role in transforming your skin and addressing concerns. The presence of actives in skincare products allows for the following:
Targeted Treatment: Active ingredients address specific skin concerns, such as acne, dryness, fine lines, and uneven skin tone. By selecting the right actives for your skin, you get the benefits of a targeted, and more effective, treatment approach.
Clinical Efficacy: Many active ingredients are backed by scientific research demonstrating their effectiveness, so you can expect noticeable results. For example, retinol is known for its anti-aging properties, while salicylic acid helps clear pores and reduce breakouts.
Customization: Different skin types and concerns require different active ingredients. Knowing which ones to use for your skincare needs allows for personalized skincare routines, leading to better overall skin health.
Product Potency: Active ingredients often determine the potency of a skincare product. Higher concentrations of effective actives can enhance results, making it crucial to choose products with appropriate formulations.
Long-term Skin Health: Regular use of products containing active ingredients can promote long-term benefits, such as improved skin texture, tone, and overall appearance.
On the flip side, if skincare products had no active ingredients, they would be primarily made up of inactive ingredients like water, oils, and emulsifiers, which might provide basic hydration and protection but wouldn't effectively address any specific skin concerns. As a result, skin issues like acne, hyperpigmentation, or aging would remain unchecked, and your skin would be at the mercy of your diet, lifestyle, the environment, etc., without another method of remedying or protecting against their impact. And even if you used skincare products, the lack of actives would likely lead to minimal visible improvements in skin texture, tone, and overall health. Essentially, skincare would lack the efficacy needed to truly enhance or transform the skin, making it super difficult to reach your skincare goals.
TLDR; Active ingredients are crucial in skincare for contributing to healthier, clearer, and more radiant skin.
Common Active Ingredients
Below is an overview of some of the most common actives to consider incorporating into your routine depending on your skincare needs. Understanding what they do and how they work can help you make informed choices about which are a good match for you.
Retinol (Vitamin A): Clinically proven to reduce fine lines, wrinkles, pore size, and other signs of aging (He et al.); improves skin texture and tone; helps with acne. Of note, it’s best to introduce retinol into your routine gradually to avoid any potential skin irritation.
Hyaluronic Acid: Deeply hydrates the skin by retaining moisture; plumps the skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines. Of note, hydration of the skin is an important indicator of a proper skin barrier. (Bravo et al.)
Vitamin C (aka Ascorbic Acid): Brightens the skin, reduces hyperpigmentation, and provides antioxidant protection against environmental damage. One study even provided clinical proof that vitamin C could improve the color, elasticity, and luster of the skin (He et al.). Note: Vitamin C is typically used in the morning and can enhance the effectiveness of sunscreen.
Niacinamide (aka Vitamin B3): Minimizes the appearance of pores and uneven skin tone, improves skin barrier function, and helps reduce inflammation and redness.
Salicylic Acid: Penetrates the pores to clear out excess oil and exfoliates dead skin cells, making it effective for treating acne and oily skin. (Rodan et al.)
AHAs (ex. Glycolic Acid or Lactic Acid): Exfoliate the skin’s surface while providing hydration, improve texture and brightness, help with fine lines and pigmentation. They also strengthen the skin barrier and have anti-oxidant properties (Rodan et al.). Note: Glycolic acid is best for normal to oily skin types. Lactic acid is a bit more gentle, so it is ideal for sensitive skin.
Zinc Oxide: This active is commonly used in physical sunscreens as it provides broad-spectrum sun protection and treatment for melasma while being generally safe for sensitive skin. (Gupta, et al.)
Peptides: Support collagen production, improve skin elasticity and firmness, and reduce signs of aging.
Ceramides: Help restore the skin barrier, which in turn locks in moisture and prevents dryness and irritation.
While they are powerhouses in their own right, oftentimes these active ingredients can also be combined within and across various products to address specific skin concerns, making them good options for your skincare routine.
How to Choose the Right Active Ingredients for Your Skin Type
Another factor that plays into choosing the right actives for you is your skin type. Below are some guidelines and tips for choosing actives based on each specific skin type.
Oily Skin
The goal for skincare actives should be to help manage your skin’s oil production, clear pores, and reduce breakouts.
Good Ingredients: Salicylic Acid is great for helping to unclog pores and reduce excess oil. Niacinamide helps balance oil production and minimizes the appearance of pores.
Tips: Look for lightweight, oil-free formulations and opt for gel or water-based products and bar cleansers (Rodan et al.)
Dry Skin
The goal for skincare actives when you have dry skin should be to provide intense hydration and restore the skin's moisture barrier.
Good Ingredients: Hyaluronic Acid attracts moisture and hydrates the skin. Ceramides help restore the skin barrier and lock in moisture.
Tips: Choose rich, emollient creams or oils to lock in moisture, and look for products with soothing ingredients like aloe vera or shea butter.
Combination Skin
The goal if you have combination skin should be to balance oil production while providing adequate hydration to both dry and oily areas.
Key Ingredients: Niacinamide balances oil and hydrates simultaneously. Glycolic Acid gently exfoliates to improve texture and tone.
Tips: Use lightweight serums for oilier areas and richer creams for dry patches. You may also consider multi-step routines that target specific areas.
Sensitive Skin
The goal for skincare actives with sensitive skin should be to soothe irritation and strengthen the skin barrier while minimizing the risk of skin reactions.
Key Ingredients: Chamomile and Aloe Vera have soothing properties to calm irritation. Lactic Acid is a gentle exfoliant that hydrates while exfoliating.
Tips: Avoid products with fragrances, alcohol, and harsh exfoliants. Also try patch-testing new products to check for reactions.
Acne-Prone Skin
If you have acne-prone skin, the goal should be to reduce breakouts and prevent future occurrences while promoting healing and skin renewal.
Key Ingredients: Retinol helps prevent clogged pores and reduces acne scarring. Benzoyl Peroxide kills acne-causing bacteria.
Tips: Start with lower concentrations of active ingredients to avoid irritation, and use non-comedogenic products that won’t clog pores.
Mature Skin
The goal for skincare actives with mature skin should be to promote collagen production and enhance skin elasticity while addressing signs of aging such as fine lines and uneven tone.
Key Ingredients: Retinol stimulates collagen production and improves skin texture. Peptides promote elasticity and firmness.
Tips: Look for products that combine multiple actives for comprehensive anti-aging benefits, and focus on hydration and moisture retention.
Dull Skin
The goal for dull skin should be to exfoliate and brighten the complexion to help reveal brighter and a more even skin tone.
Key Ingredients: Vitamin C brightens and evens skin tone. Exfoliants (like AHAs/BHAs) remove dead skin cells to reveal a smoother and more glowy complexion.
Tips: Incorporate exfoliating toners or masks into your routine, and use brightening serums to enhance skin radiance.
General Tips:
Start Slow: When introducing new active ingredients into your skincare routine, it’s a good idea to start with lower concentrations or lower frequency and gradually increase so that you can monitor how your skin reacts.
Layering: How you layer your skincare products matter. Some actives work very well together, while others may inhibit one another.
When in doubt, consult a professional: If unsure about any actives, you can always consult a dermatologist or specialist to create a skincare routine that is tailored to your specific needs.
By considering your skin type and concerns, you can choose the right active ingredients to achieve your skincare goals effectively!
Myths About Active Ingredients
One thing to be careful about when considering skincare actives is that it can be easy to come across misinformation regarding how they can work with and for your skin. And unfortunately, misinformation can lead to ineffective skincare routines and unmet expectations of their function and efficacy. Below are some common myths about skincare actives….debunked, to help you make more informed decisions for your skin.
All Actives are Harsh on the Skin
Misconception: Many believe that all active ingredients cause irritation, making them scared to try them out when in reality, their skin could benefit from actives.
Reality: While some actives (like retinol or certain acids) can irritate the skin, others (like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide) are gentle and generally suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. It’s important to patch test.
Higher Concentrations Are Always Better
Misconception: The stronger the product, the more effective it is.
Reality: Higher concentrations can lead to irritation if your skin can’t tolerate it. It’s essential to find a balance that works for your specific skin type and proprties.
You Can't Use Multiple Actives Together
Misconception: Using several actives at once will cause irritation.
Reality: Some actives work well together (like niacinamide and hyaluronic acid), while others may require more caution when mixing (like retinol and vitamin C). It’s important to test things out on your own skin to see how it reacts. Proper layering may also play a role in how active combinations work.
Natural Ingredients Are Always Safer Than Synthetic Ones
Misconception: Natural = cleaner and safer, while synthetic = harmful and unhealthy.
Reality: Both natural and synthetic ingredients can cause reactions or be beneficial. The effectiveness and safety depend on the specific ingredient and individual skin sensitivity.
You Can Skip SPF if Your Moisturizer Contains It
Misconception: Moisturizers with SPF provide enough protection from the sun during the day.
Reality: Many moisturizers don’t contain sufficient SPF for complete protection. A dedicated sunscreen is often necessary - you should definitely check product labels to make sure you’re getting adequate sun protection during the day.
Actives Need to Be Used Only at Night
Misconception: All actives should be reserved for nighttime use.
Reality: While some actives (like retinol) are typically used at night due to sun sensitivity, others (like vitamin C) are effective in the morning. It depends on the active and formulation.
You Will See Immediate Results
Misconception: Active ingredients in skincare are potent and will work instantly.
Reality: Many active ingredients require consistent use over weeks (or sometimes months) to show visible results, particularly with anti-aging or acne treatments. For example, when I started using retinol, it took me about 6 weeks to start seeing a change in my skin.
Once You Find an Active That Works, You Can Use it Forever
Misconception: Skin doesn’t change, so if an active works for you at one point in your life, it will always work.
Reality: Skin can change due to a variety of factors such as age, environment, and hormonal fluctuations. This means that it’s necessary to make adjustments to your skincare routine as needed.
More Product Equals Better Results
Misconception: Using excessive amounts of active ingredients (both in number of ingredients, as well as amount) will stack their effects and even enhance their effectiveness.
Reality: Using too much can lead to irritation and adverse skin reactions.
Actives Are Only for Specific Skin Concerns
Misconception: Actives are only for those with severe skin issues like acne or aging.
Reality: Everyone can benefit from the right actives tailored to their skin type, even for basic maintenance and prevention.
Hopefully clearing up these misconceptions can help you make better choices with your skincare routines and better utilize active ingredients for optimal results!
DIY vs. Store-Bought Products: Which is Better?
Considering that many common household / kitchen products can be used for skincare, another consideration when choosing to incorporate actives into your skincare routine is whether to go the store-bought or DIY route. And this debate between DIY and store-bought products continues to spark curiosity and discussion to this day. Below are some pros and cons of each approach to help you decide which option is best suited to your skincare needs and lifestyle.
DIY Skincare Products
Pros:
Customization: DIY products can more easily be tailored to your specific skin type and concerns, allowing for a more personalized approach.
Natural Ingredients: DIY products also often use natural ingredients, which can be less irritating for your skin and free from synthetic additives.
Cost-Effective: Since a lot of DIY recipes are made up of inexpensive pantry items, they could potentially save you money compared to commercial products.
(For example, this Good Housekeeping post provides a ton of easy and affordable recipes for DIY skincare!)
Freshness: Homemade products can be made fresh and in desired quantities, reducing the need for preservatives and ensuring potency.
Creative Freedom: If you’re making your own products, you can experiment with formulations, scents, and textures that suit your preferences.
Cons:
Lack of Regulation: DIY skincare lacks the rigorous testing and quality control of commercial products, which can lead to inconsistent formulations and results.
Potential for Irritation: Without proper knowledge, you could end up combining ingredients that don’t work well together or don’t work well with your skin, causing skin reactions.
Short Shelf Life: Homemade products typically have a shorter shelf life due to the lack of preservatives, leading to waste.
Time to Prepare: Preparing DIY products can take time and effort, which may be inconvenient.
Limited Effectiveness: Some active ingredients in effective concentrations might be difficult to source or incorporate into a DIY recipe.
Store-Bought Products
Pros:
Formulated for Efficacy: Commercial products are often developed with scientific research and testing to ensure effectiveness.
Convenience: Commercial products are also easy to purchase and use. Obviously, no preparation is required to use them, making them a time-efficient option.
Wide Range of Options: There are so many different skincare products available to address specific skin concerns with different formulations and textures.
Stability and Shelf Life: Store-bought products are often formulated with preservatives that extend their shelf life and ensure safety.
Expert-Backed: Many brands are developed in collaboration with dermatologists and skincare experts, providing a level of credibility to their safety and effectiveness.
Cons:
Cost: High-quality skincare products can be expensive, especially with premium brands. (Or if you’re like me and want to try out ALL THE THINGS, continually wanting to buy/try out new products can definitely add up.)
Synthetic Ingredients: Some products contain synthetic chemicals, fragrances, or preservatives that may irritate sensitive skin.
Less Personalization: While there are many options for skincare product formulations and other properties, they may not perfectly suit every individual’s unique skin needs.
Marketing: Some products may be marketed with exaggerated claims, which may not always pan out. This could lead to disappointment if results seen with your skin don’t meet expectations.
Environmental Impact: Commercial products often come in single-use packaging, contributing to waste.
Ultimately, there are pros and cons of each, so choosing between DIY and store-bought skincare products depends on individual preferences, skin type, and specific needs. DIY can be great for those who enjoy customization and natural ingredients, while store-bought products offer convenience and scientifically-backed formulations. Balancing both approaches can also be a viable option for your products!
In conclusion, being knowledgeable about skincare actives is essential for making informed choices about skincare products and practices that cater to your unique needs. And by understanding the different options for active ingredients in skincare, and recognizing how they work and their benefits, you can enhance your skincare routine effectively. 🧖🏻♀️🧴✨
Hope this was helpful! And if you have any favorite actives, please share in the comments below!
References
Bravo, Bruna, et al. “Benefits of Topical Hyaluronic Acid for Skin Quality and Signs of Skin Aging: From Literature Review to Clinical Evidence.” Dermatologic Therapy, U.S. National Library of Medicine, 21 Oct. 2022, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10078143/.
Gupta, Mrinal, et al. “Zinc Therapy in Dermatology: A Review.” Dermatology Research and Practice, U.S. National Library of Medicine, 2014, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4120804/.
He, Xin, et al. “Research Progress on Skin Aging and Active Ingredients.” Molecules (Basel, Switzerland), U.S. National Library of Medicine, 20 July 2023, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10385838/.
Rodan, Katie, et al. “Skincare Bootcamp: The Evolving Role of Skincare.” Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery. Global Open, U.S. National Library of Medicine, 14 Dec. 2016, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5172479/.